LMPearl Enterprises - Knife Information Page - UK Website
FIXED-BLADE KNIVES
|
 |
A fixed blade knife will never surprise you in use because it is a solid piece of steel anchored to the handle. For those who want a blade they really trust for tough jobs, such as field dressing and varied camping tasks, a fixed blade is the answer. Fixed blades are durable and hold up to the elements well because of their straight, simple construction without folding mechanisms. In fixed blade knives, the blade is one piece of metal that runs the length of the knife. When the blade reaches the beginning of the handle, it can either taper into a rat-tail that is surrounded by the handle or not taper and continue as a tang that is covered on either side by handle "slabs." |
FOLDING KNIVES
|
| Folding blade knives are generally not quite as durable as fixed blade knives, but provide safety and the carrying convenience of compact size. Folding blade knives come in a variety of configurations, some of which lock into place. Locking folders allow much of the same confidence of a fixed-blade while letting you close the blade into the handle for safety. |
| Pocket Knife |
 |
Good, ole-fashioned pocket knives are still high on the list of favourite knives, great to carry in your pocket for all the times you might need a knife. Not all models lock open, but that's not critical for their utilitarian use. Some pocket knives offer multiple blades for different uses. A good example can be found here.
|
| Lockback |
 |
A "lockback" is a type of folding knife that locks open. Locking folders provide much of the confidence of a fixed-blade while open, yet enable you to fold the blade for safety and carrying convenience.
A lockback gets its name from a rocking lock plate visible on the back of the handle. Opening the blade causes the "rocker" to lock against the blade so it locks open. Pushing down on the rocker at the back of the handle releases it and enables you to close the blade. Lockbacks require two-hand closing, though some are one-hand openers.
|
 |
Liner Lock
A "liner lock" is a folding knife that locks open via a tensioned metal liner inside the handle. Similar to a "lockback," opening the blade activates the lock. Unlocking is achieved by placing your thumb on the front part of the liner and pushing to the left, which releases the blade. A liner lock enables you to close the blade with one hand. A thumb hole or thumb stud in the blade is typically used for one-hand opening.
|
 |
Frame Lock
A "Frame Lock" operates like a liner lock, only the lock is a tensioned part of the handle frame with an open channel. When the blade opens, the frame lock moves into the handle opening and locks against the blade. Pushing to the left releases it from its "locked
|
Blade Shapes
There are many options available, and this info page is not meant to cover every knife blade design configuration, but it will serve as a handy reference to some of the most common, with an indication of their intended purpose.
The three most commonly used blade shapes
 |
Clip - The length and angle of the concave curve on the non-cutting portion of the point determines whether a clip blade is just a "clip" (short, pronounced curve), a "California" clip (longer, gentler curve) or a so-called "Turkish" clip (very elongated). The sharp point is effective for detail work, but is not as strong as a thicker blade. |
 |
Modified Clip - A recent design development that has proved popular on high-tech, one-hand opener knives. Exact shapes vary. |
 |
Drop-Point - This blade has a gentle, sloping convex curve to the point without the concave curve of the clip blade. Its thicker point is stronger for heavier tasks. The thicker tip is a positive for abuse but a negative for easy penetration. |
Other Blade Shapes
 |
Sheepsfoot - Got its name from the shape of the point resembling the hoof of a sheep. With its distinctive flat, straight-line cutting edge and rounded point, it's well suited to giving you a clean cut, especially on a flat cutting surface. |
 |
Spey - As the name indicates, this blade was originally developed to neuter farm animals. Rather blunt point avoids poking through a surface by accident, and the overall blade configuration makes the spey function well suited for skinning and sweeping knife strokes. |
 |
Pen or Spear - This is a smaller version of the larger "spear point" blade. Spear points are more popular in Europe, while in America, the clip blade is the preferred option. Pen blades are usually on pocket knives as a handy, all purpose blade. It was originally developed to trim quill pens, and that name has stuck through the years. |
 |
Coping - A narrow blade with a sharp, angular point, almost like a miniature sheepsfoot blade, designed to be used for cutting in tight spots or curved patterns, much as you would with a coping saw, only without the teeth. |
 |
Tanto - The tanto is a traditional Japanese design dating back to feudal Japan. The angled grind from the edge to the tip is much heavier and stronger than other blade styles. It is used for piercing tough materials and for prying or scraping. |
Blade Serrations (Serrated vs. Non-Serrated)
On many blades, serrations have been added to give your knife even greater cutting power.
 |
Serrated - Serrations, which might be considered a "semi-saw," provide a more aggressive cutting action, especially useful when cutting wet line, cord or cable. These blades have gained popularity, with the choice largely based on use of the knife. The serrations also retain their ability to cut longer than a standard edge. |
.gif) |
Non-serrated - These blades have a greater initial sharpness. For a clean, precision cut, a non-serrated blade is usually the first choice. |
 |
Partially serrated - Many blades are now offered partially serrated, providing the benefits of both cutting actions. |
Knife Sharpening
Every knife needs sharpening from time to time. With the following instructions, you will be using the safest and most effective method of sharpening your knife
What Not To Do
Never sharpen your knife on a power-driven grinding wheel. This can burn the temper from your blade, which will make the edge brittle and possibly chip or crack.
What to use
For best results, use a sharpening stone. For quick touch-ups on a blade that is not too dull, use a fine grit diamond sharpening stone or a honing stone. For a more thorough sharpening on a blade that is dull, use the coarse grit stone first, then go to the fine grit stone or stones. Diamond sharpening stones may be used dry or wet, but wet is recommended. When using them wet, use water, not oil, as a lubricant.
Sharpening straight blades (non-serrated)
 |
- As mentioned above, start with the desired grit stone. Most sharpening stones feature a diamond sharpening surface for good, quick results.
- Establish a correct angle of 13 to 16 degrees (approximately the thickness of the top of your blade).
- Keep the blade on the surface and use an easy, clockwise motion with the edge facing right. It is ideal to achieve the original factory edge.
- Turn the blade over. Use an easy, counter-clockwise motion with the edge facing left. Try to spend the same amount of time on each side.
- Repeat steps 3 and 4 until the edge grind appears uniform along the entire length and is even from side to side, and there are no dull spots visible on the edge when held to the light.
- Clean each stone after every use and continue with the next finer stone, repeating steps 2 through 5.
|
Products
 |
|
|
